Entry
Was Picasso Inspired By Chavin Culture?
Sep 19th, 2008 04:49
John Martin, Seo master, Harish Kohli, http://www.awimaway.com
Was Picasso Inspired By Chavin Culture?
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WALKING IN PERU’S HIGHLANDS alone without a passport or money can
itself be a forbidden adventure. And if you know little or no Spanish
it could be the worst situation you can get yourself in. But such is
the bond of trekking that when things begin to fall apart, the
backpackers’ begin to bind together.
I had just lost my jacket with my passport, money, credit cards and
last bar of chocolate when I met up with Caroline from Wales who was
trying to polish her Spanish by travelling through remote villages. We
discussed subjects of mutual interest and soon decided to move on
together to the plains of Huanuco.
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THE WIDE ‘PLAINS OF HUANUCO’ are filled with cattle. Resting against a
mud-house along the ancient road, a mid-aged lady arrives on horseback
to deliver milk. The man in the mud-house transfers it into a plastic
container. “Improvised refrigeration” he says, as he lowers it into a
running stream that runs alongside. Then he offers sweet yoghurt,
which I drink to run down the last crumbs of bread that I found at the
bottom of my rucksack.
Across the road where we sit, are the ruins of what was once the
Hunuco Pampa citidal, a city built for festivals. It lies on the major
Inca thoroughfare that connected Cusco with Cajamarca. In those days,
says the caretaker, different ethnic groups who were incorporated into
the Inca Empire populated the area but why was it known as the ‘city
of festivals’ is yet unknown. Perhaps it has to do with the abundant
produce in the region or the sublime beauty, or perhaps because it has
traces of the most ancient human occupation in Peru, the Lauricocha
people, dating back some 10,000 years.
HUARAZ – TREKKERS MECCA. Most adventurers, who come to this region as
I did, start their journey from Huaraz, capital of Ancash and trekkers
Mecca in Peru. Walking down the main street, I see trekkers stocking
up on vegetables, eggs, tinned meat, soup packets, marmite and
local ‘pan’ (bread) that happily lasts for over four days. Chavín is
three days from Huaraz by llama trek or three hours by bus. I chose
the later (and lost my jacket on it) to explore the ruins of Chavín de
Huántar, the temple that existed around 1000–200 B.C. a period called
the Early Horizon.
CHAVÍN DE HUÁNTAR is located in the north-central sierra of Peru,
sandwiched between the desert coast - one of the driest deserts of the
world - and the humid tropical Amazonian lowlands to the east. The
famed Andean prehistoric states, culminating with the expansive Inca
Empire, were primarily situated in coastal and sierra environments.
What surprised me were the animals and plants typical of the lowlands
in Chavín art. Most observers agree that Chavín de Huántar would not
have been natural home to the animals like caiman (alligator), monkey,
and plants represented in their art. But the Mosna River, along which
Chavín lies, eventually leads to the Amazon where these exist, albeit
through a tortuous route.
Looking at the site's structures, a simple sequence of construction
can be postulated. An Old Temple, built in a U-shaped form around a
circular plaza. And a new temple on a larger scale extending south and
east.
EL LANZON. Built underground, its maze of tunnels and air ducts
produce a profound confusing image in my mind. I am struck by one
single stone that stands at the centre; beautifully carved with
snakelike, human and feline features. It is called “El Lanzon” and
looking at it closely one can note that it has the form of the eye and
tooth of a jaguar, an orang-utan or a tiger. It is the art that
impresses me most. But I am not alone in coming to this conclusion.
Even Pablo Picasso said "Of all of the ancient cultures I admire that
of Chavín amazes me the most. Actually, it has been the inspiration
behind most of my art."
"CHAVÍN" Comes from a Quechua Word Meaning "CENTRE OF CENTRES", the
centre of the universe as a magic and sacred place. Weather Chavín de
Huántar was a temple or a fort at the centre of the Inca universe or
weather Lanzon was the stone of power or sacrifice is not known. One
archaeologist says that, it was a ceremonial centre with a twist on
its architecture – drains where water could be pushed through and the
roar of the water could be heard through vents and chambers within the
centre itself. When this was done, the centre literally "roared," and
you can imagine how awestruck the worshippers would have been!
Chavín had proven links with a religious grouping located on the north
coast and in the sierra of Peru. Recent excavations have clearly
proved these links by unearthing Chavín ceramics in the surroundings
of Puemape, in Cajamarca.
MACHU PICCHU. There are so many of us who have been to Machu Picchu
and there are so many more of us who know the famous Inca citadel,
than those of us who have walked through the temple of Chavín.
Archaeologist John Rick of Stanford University is trying to turn this
renowned archaeological site into a tourist interest destination that
is of equal importance as Machu Picchu. Rick, who has been digging in
for over 10 years, believes that this is not only feasible but also
possible. The future of Chavín de Huántar looks promising thanks to
the support and the Global Heritage Fund.
Caroline had by now decided to study Chavín art and to stay back in
Peru longer than she had planned. But I had to turn back and return to
Lima to get my new passport and return home. Sitting in the aircraft I
kept weighing the importance of Machu Picchu against Chavín de
Huántar. Just as Machu Picchu is grand, Chavín to is mysterious and
the more I think of it, the more impressive it becomes. May be one
day, we may know the secrets of the stone of power but till then, it
will remain shrouded in mist and mystery and inspire us with its art.
Harish Kohli
visit his site http://www.awimaway.com
to plan your vacation
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